Stockholm to Naples: Ways to Go

 A story in three parts…

Part 1:  A VERY cautionary tale

Part 2: Stockholm to Italy…Part deux

Part 3: Stockholm to Naples Day 3

Part 1: A VERY cautionary tale: 

Yesterday was as bad a travel day as one could have imagined. We started out from Stockholm, destined for Copenhagen, the first leg of our 5-train, 3-day trip across Europe, after the pair of Minnesota Wild games in the NHL Global series. 

We didn’t get nearly far enough. 

There was an explosion at a sugar refinery near Lund, Sweden, which closed the railway line connecting Stockholm and Malmo. This was not explained to us until we were well on our way.  As we approached, the crew was sounding more ominous (in Swedish) all afternoon. 

We finally came to a halt in the little town of Eslöv, some 10 miles (18 kms)  NE of the refinery site. The local authorities were not allowing any rail traffic thru the area.  All passengers were told to ride charter buses to Malmo, where trains would take them into Copenhagen. 

That was great for most of the 140 people on the train, but not for my wife, Noella, and myself. My lack of mobility, and the fact that buses were called late conspired against us. So, after lots of debate, and massive amounts of alternate planning, we decided to return to Stockholm and start again, after another nights sleep.  The SJ railway people were doing their best, to handle a situation which was way out of their control. 

(Mind you, in my Amtrak days I was the guy calling the buses in for train replacements; so I knew how bad this was for the SJ managers, as they had to now do the same thing.)

So, after sitting in Eslôv for nearly two hours, our train started again, this time to return to Stockholm. There were people trying to go everywhere, but the explosion was having none of that. I suppose the fact that it was Monday afternoon and people were where they needed to be already factored Into it as well. 

The trip back was very uneventful, as after dark all signs of where our train was disappeared. We finally made it into Stockholm Central Station at 9:08 PM, nearly 13 hours after we had started.  Only one thing remained: 

Bed.

Part 2: Stockholm to Italy … part deux…

Ok, so Monday sucked.  Didn’t get 300 miles from home, and forced to turn back. Granted, the day yesterday WAS salvaged… for a flight.

A Swiss Air A320 did the honors, as the sun was setting as the sun set over Arlanda airport…which is about 45 kilometers (26 miles) from Downtown Stockholm…

…and we flew one off thru the really early sunsets which this part of Northern Europe is famous for.  ‘Ya, but it’s already -18 in north Sweden,’ the flight attendant said. Thanks for cheering me up…

Anyway, arrived in Zurich, one of Europe’s most expensive cities to spend the night at the somewhat aptly-named Walhalla Hotel.  We were now back on schedule, as Tuesday was basically a rest day before the last lap on Wednesday, a day which back home would have included lots of Noella food prep. Instead, she was sound asleep minutes after the lights went out. 

Come to think of It, so was I…

Part 3: Day 3 of Stockholm to Naples: 

Started out in the mid-40’s (F) as we taxied over to Zurich Main Station (a.k.a. the Hauptbahnhof) for the thru train over Gotthard Pass to Milan. After some cajoling with various Swiss railway people, the train was finally ready to board.  Took seats and we were back on achedule! 

While on the northern part of the Gotthard Panoramique route was in rain and low clouds, once thru the 9-mile long ‘old’ Gotthard Tunnel, the south half of the pass was bathed in sunlight, something we had precious little of in the past week.

Reminded me of the line from the Bangles’ song ‘Manic Monday’:

‘…I was kissing Valentino 

          near a crystal blue Italian stream.’

Anyway, the line is swamped with rail traffic, as the new, 57km (35 mile)-long Gotthard Base Tunnel is closed until well into 2024 due to a freight train derailment. 

As we ventured south into Italy, we were venturing into Lombardia, the Italian state whose largest city, Milan, was our destination.  Would have made it on time, too, had it not been for massive train congestion in and out of Milano Centrale station. 

Off of our EuroCity equipment and onto one of TrenItalia’s Freciarossa 1000 high-speed trains for a 4 1/2-hour run down the leg of Italy to Naples, where the train — and, us — would terminate. Again, it was a sunny, warmish fall afternoon.

After all that, we’d finally made it! (Yay us!!) Across the street to our hotel. dinner (spaghetti — what else?) and, finally, the highlight of the night:

🛌🛌Bed!